The elongated island of Hvar in Central Dalmatia bridges urban coastal life with expansive natural landscapes. Just offshore, the Pakleni Islands expand the sailing area with a highly diverse archipelago.
Sailing off Hvar in Central Dalmatia means traveling through a region defined by the historic port of Hvar Town, the older settlements on the northern coast, and the offshore archipelago of the Pakleni Islands. The elongated main island of Hvar lies south of Brač. It shapes the Dalmatian landscape with barren ridges, scattered lavender fields, and extensive wine terraces. Here, urban infrastructure right by the sea meets a centuries-old agricultural island culture. This geographical layout makes the area a central hub along the Dalmatian coast.
The island's coastline shows two very distinct faces. In the south, steep slopes drop abruptly into the open sea. Tiny wine villages cling to the light karst rock along these slopes, while the shorelines are extremely rocky. The northern coast, on the other hand, is significantly flatter and highly indented. Deep cuts in the rock form natural harbor bays, with the island's oldest settlements at their ends. This contrast allows travelers to experience both dense urban activity and the isolation of natural rocky shores within a very compact area.
Hvar Town serves as the urban center of the island. Wide stone facades line the Riva, the bustling waterfront promenade. The historic Arsenal dominates the transition from the water to the central square, the Pjaca. This building with its massive stone arch on the quay dates back to the 13th century and originally served as a maintenance facility for Venetian war galleys. The upper floor houses a small theater, ranking among the oldest continuously used public theaters in Europe. During the afternoon hours, the massive stone buildings cast long shadows across the bright limestone of the square.
The Fortica fortress, locally often called Španjola, towers over the town. A footpath leads up the mountain through sparse pine stands and past large agaves. From the old defensive walls, the view opens up over the red tiled roofs of the old town across to the Pakleni Islands, which spread out in the water like an intricate mosaic. The town has changed significantly in recent years. In the evening, the restaurants in the narrow alleys fill up, and the waterfront promenade becomes a gathering place for international visitors.
The Pakleni Islands stretch over several kilometers from east to west. They form a natural barrier in front of the bay of Hvar Town. The name of the archipelago is often incorrectly translated as Hell's Islands. Linguistically, however, the term derives from paklina. Paklina is the dark pine resin that shipbuilders in past centuries used to seal the seams of wooden hulls to make them waterproof. The scent of the pines that produced this resin still lingers noticeably in the air on hot summer days.
Sveti Klement forms the largest landmass of this archipelago. A well-known location on the island is the Palmižana estate. The Meneghello family has been tending an extensive botanical garden here since the early 20th century. Exotic plants and cacti grow closely together with native macchia. The shores of the entire island group are predominantly rocky, and the bright karst seabed makes the water appear in varying shades of blue.
| Town / Island | Location in the Region | Architectural or Natural Feature |
|---|---|---|
| Hvar Town | South coast of Hvar | Fortica fortress, Arsenal at the harbor square |
| Sveti Klement | Pakleni Islands | Botanical garden in Palmižana Bay |
| Stari Grad | North coast of Hvar | Tvrdalj Castle, UNESCO cultural landscape |
| Vrboska | North coast of Hvar | Massive fortress church of Sv. Marija od Milosrđa |
Those avoiding the high visitor traffic of the southern island capital head to the northern coast. Stari Grad sits at the end of a long bay. Greek settlers founded the colony of Pharos here in 384 BC, making it one of the oldest settlements in Croatia. The old town consists of a dense network of narrow alleys and massive traditional stone houses. A prominent structure is the Tvrdalj Castle of the Renaissance poet Petar Hektorović. He had a large seawater basin for fish built in the courtyard of his residence. Stone inscriptions on the courtyard walls reflect on nature and the fleeting transience of human life.
The Starogradsko polje stretches east of the town. This flat agricultural plain is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The parceling of the fields dates back to antiquity. Old dry stone walls separate small plots where the island's farmers have continuously cultivated olive trees and grapevines for over two millennia. The brick-red soil, known as terra rossa, contrasts sharply with the white stone walls and defines the look of this cultural landscape.
Vrboska follows further east along the northern coast. The town stretches along a narrow, heavily winding sea inlet that visually almost resembles a river. Several small stone bridges connect the two sides of the shore. Massive stone townhouses from the Gothic and Renaissance periods line the waterfront. The fortress church of Sv. Marija od Milosrđa stands above the roofs. The residents expanded it into a massive sanctuary against Ottoman raids in the 16th century. With its thick walls and narrow arrow slits, its architecture resembles a fortified castle.
A footpath leads from Vrboska through a sparse pine forest directly along the rocky coast to the neighboring town of Jelsa. Jelsa has a lively harbor square and an immediately adjacent park. The everyday life of the islanders is more evident here than in the heavily frequented centers. Local konobas serve simple regional dishes without elaborate presentation. The evening waterfront promenade fills primarily with locals winding down their day by the water.
Dalmatian culinary culture relies heavily on the quality of its basic ingredients. The peka is a highly traditional cooking method. Chefs cook veal or octopus together with potatoes, onions, and herbs under a heavy cast-iron bell. This bell is completely covered with hot embers on an outdoor stone fire pit or in a traditional fireplace house. The process takes several hours, which is why restaurants strictly require an advance order. The slow heat concentrates the flavors of the ingredients intensely as they cook in their own juices.
A specific specialty of the island of Hvar is the gregada. This hearty fish stew traces back to the simple meals of fishermen utilizing their unsellable bycatch. Today, chefs use premium fish like scorpionfish or dentex. They braise thick slices of the fish with potatoes, generous amounts of onions, fresh garlic, and local olive oil over an open fire until a rich broth develops. These regional products define the culinary scene:
The climate on Hvar is Mediterranean. Long, dry, and often very hot summers alternate with milder, wetter winters. The weather patterns along the coast are heavily influenced by typical Adriatic winds like the bora, jugo, and maestral.
Marina Trogir serves as the base for a trip into the island world around Hvar. The historic old town of Trogir forms the center of a small island located between the Dalmatian mainland and the island of Čiovo. From here, the new Lagoon 47 MANAIA sets sail for one-week trips into the Dalmatian archipelago during the 2027 season. The brand-new catamaran features four double cabins with queen-size beds, each equipped with an en suite bathroom and a separate shower. The boat is designed to comfortably accommodate up to eight guests with ample space.
Families or private groups typically choose the private charter, claiming the entire ship and a professional skipper exclusively for themselves. For solo travelers or couples, the cabin charter provides a tailored alternative. You rent a single cabin and share the trip with other guests on board. The pricing structure remains completely transparent. All seasonal rates, the mandatory charter package, and the skipper's fees can be calculated using the detailed price calculator. Those looking for higher speeds on the water can add water toys like a Seabob or an electric AWAKE surfboard as a paid extra. Ongoing incidental costs such as groceries, fuel, and harbor fees are settled fairly through the onboard cash fund. You can find an in-depth look at other cruising areas in Dalmatia on our Experience and Cruising Areas page.
You can find more articles on the topic of cruising areas and bays in our magazine.
The Pakleni Islands are an archipelago in Central Dalmatia. They stretch just off the southwestern coast of the island of Hvar and form a natural barrier in front of Hvar Town. The island group consists of numerous wooded rocks and islets, with Sveti Klement having the largest landmass.
The name is often mistakenly translated as Hell's Islands. Linguistically, however, the term derives from paklina. This is a dark pine resin that local boatbuilders historically extracted and heated to seal the wooden hulls of their ships.
East of Stari Grad lies the Starogradsko polje, a flat agricultural plain designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The strict parceling of the fields by old dry stone walls dates back to the era of Greek settlement. Olives and grapes have been continuously cultivated here for over two millennia.
The gregada is a hearty, traditional fish stew on Hvar. Chefs slowly braise thick pieces of various premium fish along with potatoes, plenty of onions, garlic, and local olive oil in a pot over an open fire until a concentrated, rich broth forms.