Seven Days on the Adriatic - In the Rhythm of the Wind and Sea

A week on a catamaran doesn't change the world, but sometimes it changes your perspective on daily life. Join us on our June 2026 trip through Central Dalmatia to quiet bays, vibrant coastal towns, and moments that linger.

Seven Days on the Adriatic – Sailing Between Trogir, Hvar, and the Rhythm of the Sea

Turquoise waters, warm summer evenings, and days shaped by the rhythm of the wind and sea. But what does a week sailing on a catamaran in Croatia really feel like?

Our June 2026 sailing trip took us through the islands of Central Dalmatia – with beautiful days under sail, spectacular scenery, a few small challenges, and plenty of unforgettable moments along the way.

The First Sailing Day – Back at Sea at Last

On June 4, the time had finally come. After completing our preparations in Trogir and the mandatory safety briefing, we cast off and set sail.

With perfect sailing conditions, we headed through the Splitski Channel, passing the island of Šolta to port before continuing towards the open Adriatic.

For most of the day, we sailed on a beam to broad reach at around 5–7 knots, making our way through the deep blue waters of the Adriatic.

After several wonderful hours under sail and a few changes of course, we decided to head towards the Blue Lagoon near Trogir. And then something happened that no sailing itinerary can plan – and no holiday can buy.

An Encounter with Dolphins

Suddenly, a large pod of around 10–12 dolphins appeared alongside us. At first, they swam parallel to the catamaran, gradually coming closer and closer. Then one of these beautiful animals appeared directly beneath us, playfully swimming back and forth between the two hulls. What an incredible sight!

Unfortunately, in all the excitement, I couldn't grab my phone or camera quickly enough. So this special and unforgettable moment exists only in our memories. The dolphins stayed with us for a while longer, swimming alongside and beneath the boat before eventually disappearing towards the north.

Watching them so close to the boat was a truly special moment. For a little while, it almost felt as though they were enjoying the encounter just as much as we were.

After this very special encounter, we continued towards the Blue Lagoon near Trogir, where we dropped anchor and spent a few wonderfully relaxing hours in the bay. We enjoyed the crystal-clear water, went for a swim, and simply took in the perfect start to our sailing week in Croatia.

In the evening, we were rewarded with a breathtaking sunset while enjoying a few drinks from the onboard bar. Could a sailing week start any better?

But the sea has a way of reminding you that not everything can be planned. The next morning, while raising the anchor, our anchor windlass suddenly failed. Continuing without a functioning windlass was not an option, so we returned to Trogir to have the problem fixed by our mechanics.

After two hours of hard work in the rather cramped and difficult-to-reach anchor locker, the faulty motor was replaced. And so our second sailing day ended very differently from what we had planned – back at our marina in Trogir.

That, too, is part of sailing. Not every day goes according to plan – what matters is how you deal with the unexpected.

Back on Course

The next morning, after a leisurely breakfast on board, we set off again. Our route took us through the Splitski Channel towards Milna on the island of Brač. The sailing conditions were excellent, and our catamaran made fast and effortless progress through the water.

Halfway there, however, the wind gradually shifted towards the south and began to strengthen. Continuing to Milna would have meant motoring for the rest of the journey. But when you are sailing in Croatia, sometimes the weather simply makes the decisions for you. We decided we would rather keep sailing – and changed course.

With a steady following wind and occasionally heavier seas, we quickly covered the roughly 20 nautical miles under sail. At times, the log showed more than 8 knots through the water.

As soon as we entered Maslinica on the island of Šolta, we were reminded why this little village is one of our favourite places in the area. Crystal-clear water, a beautiful waterfront promenade, and its relaxed atmosphere make Maslinica a wonderful destination during a sailing trip through Central Dalmatia.

Sailing Between Šolta and Hvar

June 7 gave us one of those sailing days that stays in your memory for a long time. From Maslinica on Šolta, we set course for Hvar – and thanks to a fresh Maestral, we were able to sail the entire distance between the two islands.

With 18–22 knots of wind from astern, our catamaran made fast progress towards Hvar. The Adriatic showed us one of its most beautiful sides as the islands slowly slipped past in the distance. At times, the log showed speeds of up to 9 knots through the water. Simply marvellous!

Eventually, we entered Uvala Jagodna on Hvar, where we picked up one of the three buoys belonging to the small hotel in the bay. Jagodna is not the most comfortable place to stay when the Maestral is blowing during the day, but there was a good reason for choosing it: we really wanted to have dinner at the beautiful little Hotel Jagodna.

As always, the food was excellent, and the relaxed atmosphere combined with the hotel's wonderful location directly by the sea made the evening one of the highlights of our sailing week in Croatia.

The night, however, was not quite as peaceful. An uncomfortable swell from the northwest occasionally caused the boat to pull heavily on the mooring buoy – a reminder that out here, we are always at the mercy of the sea and the elements.

A Special Photo Project Begins

On June 8, we returned to Trogir to welcome another guest on board. For our new website, we wanted photographs that show exactly what our guests can expect from a sailing holiday in Croatia – no staged promotional shots, but real moments and authentic life on board. To capture these images, we were delighted to welcome professional photographer Anja Fleischmann aboard.

That evening, we headed to one of our favourite restaurants, Buta in Seget Donji. The restaurant is well known among sailors and locals alike, and for good reason. The welcoming owners and their team always go out of their way to make every visit special, with excellent food and warm hospitality. And then there is the wonderful location – right by the sea.

From June 8 onwards, our sailing trip was all about creating the new images for SAILING MANAIA – and we happily placed ourselves under Anja’s direction as she captured hundreds of fantastic photographs over the following days.

Since getting the right images was more important to us than visiting as many places as possible, we decided to stay around the Split and Trogir region. Rarely had we experienced such a relaxed sailing trip. Suddenly, route planning, preparations, and the usual question of where to sail the next day became almost irrelevant.

The weather could hardly have been better. Not a single drop of rain fell throughout the week, and even the wind rarely let us down.

The day began in a small bay just opposite our marina in Trogir. With a glassy sea and hardly a breath of wind, we spent a wonderfully relaxed day swimming and enjoying the water. The surface was almost perfectly still, creating ideal conditions for photography.

Anyone who knows Racetinovac Bay will probably also know the floating cocktail bar anchored there. Of course, we couldn't resist stopping by for a drink.

Maslinica

In the evening, we returned to Maslinica and spent another night in the beautiful Martinis Marchi Marina.

The atmosphere that evening was almost impossible to put into words. Simply unforgettable – one of those moments when the sun slowly disappears beyond the horizon and the entire Adriatic seems to glow in the last light of the day.

Anyone visiting Maslinica who appreciates excellent food and genuine hospitality should definitely make time for dinner at Sampjer.

From the harbour, it is a pleasant 20–30 minute walk uphill through narrow lanes and stairways, passing a mixture of beautiful old stone houses and newer homes in this picturesque little village.

Sampjer sits high above Maslinica and offers magnificent views across the sea and the surrounding islands. But as impressive as the setting is, the real reason to come here is the excellent food and the carefully selected wines from the island of Korčula.

For me, the combination of the location, the views, the food and wine, and the exceptionally friendly team makes Sampjer one of the best restaurants we have discovered while sailing around the islands near Split. Whenever we are in this part of Dalmatia, an evening at Sampjer has become a tradition for us.

The next morning, we started the day with another swim. Just beyond the marina’s breakwater lies a small pebble beach that is rarely crowded. The water here is crystal clear – just as you would expect along the Croatian Adriatic coast.

Later, we settled into the nearby beach bar for a snack and an ice-cold Karlovačko, one of Croatia’s best-known beers.

It is the perfect place to slow down and relax – a touch of Ibiza atmosphere, just without the crowds.

When the Maestral Shows Its Strength

In the afternoon, we said goodbye to my friend Alan, who works as a marinero in the harbour and always makes sure everything runs smoothly. Then we headed out once again for a few more hours under sail.

As forecast, the wind outside the harbour quickly began to strengthen from the northwest. Within a short time, a pleasant sailing breeze developed into a strong Maestral, with winds further offshore already reaching up to 35 knots (around 40 mph).

As no one else on board had experience sailing in conditions like these, I decided to change course and head towards the Blue Lagoon near Trogir. There, we could continue sailing in the shelter of the islands while still experiencing just how much fun a catamaran can be in stronger winds.

On the way there, however, the wind gradually shifted further towards the west. That meant the Blue Lagoon was no longer a suitable option. The bay is largely open to the west and offers very little protection from wind and swell coming from that direction.

Anchoring in conditions like these means unnecessary stress. You are constantly thinking about the anchor, keeping an eye on the boat’s position, and hoping it continues to hold. If the anchor starts to drag, the situation can quickly become uncomfortable.

In calm conditions, however, the Blue Lagoon near Trogir is a completely different place – crystal-clear turquoise water and an atmosphere that feels almost Caribbean.

Unfortunately, the Blue Lagoon near Trogir has become a popular stop for large excursion boats from Trogir and Split. At times, several hundred visitors can arrive in the bay at once, so it can become quite busy and noisy during the day.

For that reason, we prefer to visit the Blue Lagoon in the late afternoon or evening, once most of the excursion boats have departed. For a peaceful night at anchor, however, it can still be a beautiful place.

We continued towards Poljica, as the bay offers good protection from westerly winds. After several attempts to anchor on difficult ground – mostly rock and coarse gravel – and an extensive search for a suitable spot, we still couldn't find anywhere we felt comfortable staying overnight.

So we decided to return to Trogir, especially as we had to leave the boat the following morning anyway.

A Relaxed End to the Week

Later that afternoon, we headed once more to Racetinovac Bay. There, we dropped anchor for the final time and brought our sailing week to a relaxed close – swimming, paddleboarding, taking the dinghy out for a little spin, and simply enjoying our last few hours on the water.

As the sun slowly sank towards the horizon, we made our way back to Trogir. Once again, the week had shown us that things on the water rarely go exactly according to plan – and that is precisely part of the appeal of sailing.

The key is not to stick rigidly to every plan, but to adapt to the conditions and make the best of each day.

The Mandatory Fuel Stop

Before returning a charter yacht, the diesel tanks have to be completely refilled. For many charter skippers – especially those with less experience – the final visit to the fuel dock is a moment they approach with mixed feelings. It can get extremely busy, space is limited, and every skipper needs to manoeuvre safely in close quarters.

With an inexperienced crew, the situation can quickly become hectic. That makes it all the more important to assign everyone a clear task beforehand and give the crew a short briefing. Good preparation takes much of the stress out of the situation.

We were lucky. As we had decided to refuel on Thursday evening, everything went completely smoothly. By the time we arrived at around 8:00 PM, we were the only boat at the fuel dock.

Anyone who waits until Friday, however, may get to witness some genuine marina theatre – long queues of charter yachts, hectic manoeuvres, and the occasional rather animated discussion.

The Final Docking Maneuver

From the fuel station, we went straight back to our berth at the marina. After a week on board, every movement was now second nature. Thanks to the well-coordinated crew, the final docking maneuver also went calmly and in a controlled manner. A few minutes later, the boat was securely tied up.

For me, this is always a nice moment. At the beginning of the week, many processes are still unfamiliar. But with each day, the teamwork between skipper and crew grows. In the end, everyone knows what to do – and that makes docking much more relaxed.

Trogir – The Perfect End to a Sailing Week

A firm tradition has developed for us over the years: on the last evening, we always walk from the marina to the historic old town of Trogir. After a week on the water, this is the perfect conclusion – strolling through the narrow streets, enjoying the special atmosphere, and ending the trip with a good dinner.

Trogir’s history is visible at every corner. The ancient town was founded by Greek colonists as early as the 3rd century BC, and today its remarkably well-preserved historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Anyone spending an evening in Trogir should simply wander through the old town. Away from the main streets, there are many small restaurants serving excellent Dalmatian cuisine. That is exactly where we spend our last evening every year.

My personal favorite is Restaurant Sv. Dominik in the heart of the old town. The restaurant is located next to the historic Dominican Monastery and has a beautiful courtyard with a very special atmosphere.

The cuisine is creative, regional, and far removed from the usual tourist fare. Every dish is prepared with great attention to detail. For us, an evening at Sv. Dominik has become just as much a part of a sailing week as the first departure from the marina.

Sailing in Croatia – A Week to Remember

Behind us lay a week full of contrasts: fantastic sailing conditions, turquoise waters, quiet bays, vibrant harbor towns, excellent food, a dolphin encounter, and a Maestral that showed its full strength at times.

We sailed through some of the most beautiful areas of Central Dalmatia and came away with unforgettable memories.

It is precisely this mix that makes sailing in Croatia so special. Every day is different, every bay has its own character, and even after many years on the water, there are always moments that surprise and inspire.

Perhaps that is exactly the fascination of sailing: you can sail the same route ten times and still experience it differently every time.

Did you enjoy this travel report?

You’ll find more trip reports, regional information, and practical tips about sailing in Croatia at SAILING MANAIA.

Texts: Werner Trefzer
Photography: Anja Fleischmann (anja-fotiart.ch)